Category Archives: Uncategorized

Litterbox Article, Feline

 Litter Box Information
By Dr. Karen Burgess

Inappropriate elimination, or urinating/defecating outside of the litter box, is one of the primary reasons cats are relinquished to shelters.  While a common issue when a cats are faced with stress, anxiety, or pain, inappropriate urination has many causes and thus many potential solutions.

As a human, we flush the toilet after every use.  A cat’s sense of smell is more sensitive than ours, so having to walk through a soiled litter box is a less than appealing prospect for naturally clean loving cats.  In the wild, felines find a new area to eliminate avoiding this issue.  In the home it is then understandable how a small box may become far less appealing than the “open land” found in a living room, closet, or under the bed.

When first faced with a litter box issue, contact your veterinarian to discuss possible medical causes.  Cats do not like associating pain with their elimination location so bladder infections, arthritis, or constipation can all contribute to a litter box aversion.  Also remember that punishment is never recommended for soiling issues.  It does not address the problem and may increase stress making the problem worse.

Top reasons that cats stop using the litter box:

  • Dirty litter box
  • Litter box style (too small, covered)
  • Litter type (odor, consistency)
  • Too few litter boxes in household
  • Medical problems
  • Behavioral issues
  • Litter box environment (sounds, lack of privacy, surrounding texture, lighting)
  • Landlocked litter box (no escape route if cat is startled or frightened, i.e. by housemates.

Dirty Litter Box

  • Litter box should be scooped at least twice daily
  • Cats can smell even the smallest amount of urine.  Clumping litter allows liquid and solid waste to be removed completely. Non clumping litter allows adequate removal of feces but not urine.  Kittens younger than 8 weeks of age may do better in the short run with non clumping litter.
  • Litter boxes should be completely emptied of litter and cleaned (vinegar and water) every 2 to 3 weeks.
  • Proper cleaning technique-for excrement to be completely removed it needs to essentially be in a ball.  If residual urine or fecal matter is being scraped from the bottom of the litter pan this is not clean in a cat’s mind.  Proper litter depth is essential allowing for the scoop to go below the clump and elevate it completely.  If litter/matter is stuck to the side of the box, push the litter from the side of the box, spray the area with 1 part bleach to 30 parts water solution and wipe with a paper towel.  When dry, re-spread litter.

Litter Box Style/Size

  • Covered litter boxes are appealing to humans but are often a turn off to cats.  While the covered box size may be similar to a regular box, the “hood” does not allow a cat to hang their head over the side making it a more confining space.  This also may force cats to change their posture for elimination (“scrunch up”) which in some cases can cause discomfort.  Covered boxes limit visibility which can be frightening and lead to a feeling of entrapment.  This can be a significant concern in households where all feline members do not get along.  Combine all of these factors with increased odor retention, increased dust exposure, and inability for owners to see a dirty box and one can quickly see why covered boxes are not optimal.
  • Bigger is better when it comes to litter boxes.  A cat should be able to turn around completely in their box and not touch the sides.  A good sized box should be a minimum of 22” by 16”.  Consider non-conventional litter boxes such as plastic storage containers.

Type/Amounts

  • Added scents or perfumes are made appeal to humans, not to cats.  In some cases, these additives can be an aversion.  Look for unscented, carbon based clumping cat litter (Examples-Fresh Step Perfume and Dye Free, Ever Clean Unscented, Scoop Away Free, read labels carefully).  The best way to control odor is frequent cleaning of the litter box.
  • Litter should be 4 inches deep.

Litter Box Numbers

  • There should be at least one more litter box than the number of cats in the household.  Often cats will avoid a litter box that has been used by another cat while other cats may choose to use one box for urination and one for defecation.

Litter Box Location

  •  Litter boxes should be located in quiet low traffic areas away from food and water bowls.  Ideally they should not be cornered, meaning a cat using the litter box should feel as though they have at least two viable exit strategies (i.e. doors, vertical jumping spots) if placed in a frightening situation.
  • Avoid placing the litter box on unappealing textures that may cause discomfort for the cat as they enter the box.
  • If a house is multilevel, place a litter box on each level if possible.
  • When obtaining a new cat or kitten it is best to confine them to a smaller area until acclimated to the environment and litter box.  Over time gradually increase their free range allowing them to find their own way back to the litter box.

Storage Container Litter Box DIY

  • Consider making your own litter box using a large storage container or cement mixing container (approx. dimensions 19.5” W by 29.5” L by 19” H).  With a litter depth of 4”, the bottom of the door can be made at 8” from the ground.  The door should be approximately 9” by 9”.  Using the short side for the door can prevent unintentional urination out of the door.  As reference, 70-80# of litter will be required for the appropriate depth.

 

Asthma, Feline

Feline Asthma
By Dr. Karen Burgess

What is feline asthma?
Feline Asthma is an airway condition in cats that in its worst forms can be life-threatening.  Also known as allergic or obstructive lung disease, feline asthma has symptoms that closely resemble those of human bronchitis.

What causes feline asthma?
There is not one exclusive cause for asthma in cats.  It is typically an abnormal response or sensitivity to an airborne agent, bacteria/virus, or parasites.  This then sets off a cascade of inflammation in the lungs which ultimately leads to constriction or narrowing of the small airways, buildup of mucous in the airways, cough, and difficulty breathing.  Asthmatic cats can then become more susceptible to secondary bacterial lung infections or even emphysema (air trapped in the lungs/overinflated lungs).

What are risk factors for developing asthma in cats?
Siamese, middle aged (two to eight years of age), and overweight cats may have a higher incidence.

What are symptoms of asthma?
Coughing or difficulty breathing are the primary symptoms associated with asthma.  Often owners may mistake vomiting for coughing as they can look very similar.  A good way to differentiate is that a cough will typically not have food or bile expelled.  It may however appear as though a pet is swallowing after a cough.  Youtube is another good resource for seeing examples of cats coughing (search for “cat cough”).  Other signs or asthma include inappetance, vomiting, sneezing, and a squatting/neck extended stance while coughing.  If a cat is open mouth breathing for any reason it is considered a medical emergency.

How does asthma get diagnosed?
Radiographs or x-rays of the lungs are typically taken to diagnose asthma.  Evidence of inflammation on films along with consistent clinical signs is even more convincing.  Additional diagnostics may include blood work, heartworm testing, feline leukemia/AIDS testing, and fecal parasite exam.  A lavage or wash of the airways can also be used to identify specific cells in the airway.

What is the treatment for feline asthma?
Corticosteroids (steroids) are the common treatment modality for asthma.  Available orally and via an inhaler, steroids reduce inflammation.  While it can take time and patience to desensitize a cat to an inhaler device (similar to ones used for children), this form of steroid has less systemic side effects and is preferred for long term use.  In some cases bronchodilators (oral or inhaled) can also be of benefit.  In emergency situations sedation and oxygen may be necessary to stabilize a cat in crisis.

What is the prognosis with feline asthma?
While there is no cure, asthma can typically be managed and not affect quality or quantity of life.  For cats that are in a crisis the condition can however be life-threatening within minutes to hours.

What other resources are available?
The website www.fritzthebrave.com provides a wealth of knowledge on feline asthma.  Yahoo also has several groups dedicated to this condition.

Anal Sac Disease, Canine

Anal Sac Disease
By Dr. Karen Burgess

What are the anal sacs?
Anal sacs, or anal glands, are two sacs found under the skin near a dog or cat’s rectum.  Located at approximately four and eight o’clock when looking at the anus, these sacs normally contain an often putrid dark colored fluid-like material that exits into the anus via small ducts.  Often considered to be “scent glands”, anal sac fluid is naturally released during defecation or at times of excitement or stress (similar to a skunk).  In the wild, dogs will mark their territory with anal sac material, rubbing their back ends against vertical surfaces to promote expression.

Why do pets develop anal sac disease?
It is unknown why our domesticated pets have anal sac issues.  It may be related to breed, weight, or underlying skin disease (the anal sacs are lined with cells similar to the skin).  Diarrhea or low fiber diets may also contribute to disease.

What are symptoms of anal sac disease?
Pets with anal sac disease often will scoot their bottoms or lick excessively at their anus.  In some pets the material in the anal sacs will become impacted or “plugged”.  The fluid in these cases is often thicker than usual contributing to swelling, blockage, and eventual infection.  With complete blockage, the anal sac can rupture through the skin near the anus leaving a large open wound or matted fur near the anus.  Pets with severe infection may show signs of general illness including lethargy, painful defecation, and anorexia.  If you suspect your pet has an anal sac abscess do not attempt to handle their back end as they may unintentionally bite due to pain.

How is anal sac disease treated?
An isolated episode may only require manual expression of the fluid in the anal sac.  This can be done externally but is more effectively accomplished by a trained professional rectally.  In cases of impaction or abscess, wound care (cleaning, flushing) with sedation is often necessary along with oral antibiotics, anti-inflammatories, and pain medication.  An Elizabethean collar will also be necessary to prevent further self-trauma.  Reevaluation by rectal palpation after infection resolution is necessary to ensure no residual disease or masses are present.

How is anal sac disease prevented?
There is no definitive way to prevent anal sac disease.  Some pets have their anal sacs expressed on a regular basis to prevent issues, but this may also contribute to their inflammation.  Weight control and exercise along with increased fiber intake (idea being that a bulkier stool increases stimulation and thus expression of anal sac material) may help prevent episodes.  In cases of recurrent anal sac disease, diagnostics for food or inhalational allergies (atopy) is recommended.  Surgical removal is an option, but should be avoided at all costs due to likelihood of complications.

Biking With Your Dog

Biking with your dog          

Biking is a refreshing and exhilarating way to get out, see the world, and get around. Even more fun is when you can take your furry companion along. While there are many ways to travel in style with a bike and your pet, some are better options than others. Some things to consider…..

  • General health- While a great way to exercise, biking can also be dangerous if a pet is not in good health. A clean bill of health, no underlying orthopedic or respiratory issues, and normal to lean body weight are all prerequisites.
  • Size- The accelerated rate of biking is not conducive for little legs, dogs under 20# should stick to trailer riding behind bikes.
  • Age- Young developing bones need to be protected a bit more than adult bones, dogs should be over a year of age to bike with owners
  • Comfort- It only takes one leash tangling up with one tire for catastrophe to strike. There are many safe options for tethering dogs to bikes or trailing them behind. It also may take time to acclimate your pet to the harness, tether, and moving bicycle. Consider environmental conditions when training your pet to a bike. Weather, traffic, and road surfaces all play a factor. Also consider the time of day, dogs have been known to “run their footpads off” from hot pavement or overheat from over exertion.

Biking with your dog can be a great way to exercise and enjoy nature for dogs and their people. Taking the time to prepare can make this a rewarding experience for all. Please visit http://www.thedogoutdoors.com/dog-biking-tips.html for additional resources, supplies (bike tow leashes, harnesses, cooling vests), and tips before hitting the trail.

Acne, Canine

Canine Acne
(Chin and Muzzle Folliculitis and Furunculosis)
By Dr. Karen Burgess

Canine acne is a skin condition characterized by papules, pustules, and inflammation of hair follicles. The cause and pathogenesis of canine acne is unknown. The condition spontaneously resolves in many animals when they reach adulthood, although some animals remain affected for life.

Canine acne occurs most commonly over the chin and lips of young, shorthaired breeds. Lesions consist of red bumps (papules) or pus-filled bumps (pustules) involving hair follicles. These bumps may ulcerate and drain a bloody or pus-filled discharge. Occasionally, the hair follicles can rupture (Furunculosis) resulting in extensive inflammation and development of small, fibrous nodules. If lesions are minimal they may cause very little discomfort to the animal but extensively affected areas may be painful or itchy.

Breeds most commonly affected are Doberman Pinschers, English Bulldogs, Great Danes, Weimaraners, Rottweilers, Boxers, and German Shorthaired Pointers.

Diagnose of canine acne is made by clinical signs and history. Skin scrapings, fungal and bacterial cultures may be performed to rule out mange and fungal infections or determine what antibiotic is appropriate.

Treatment involves cleansing affected areas daily with a medicated shampoo or ointment to aid in removal of debris from hair follicles and to decrease bacterial numbers on the skin. A topical antibacterial ointment is then applied twice daily. Severe cases may require systemic antibiotics.

Key Point: There are a small number of cases that cannot be cured but just controlled with continuous treatment.